How to choose a moisturizer? Dermatologist advice

The skin needs hydration all year round - water creates the basis for cell life and supports metabolic processes. Aggressive external factors and poor lifestyle dry out the epidermis, accelerate its aging and make it susceptible to various infections. Daily care with products to maintain water balance is indicated not only for dry, but also for oily and combination skin, because sebum does not solve this problem. The article will help you choose the best facial moisturizer from the products available on the Russian market.

Mass market

Moisturizing creams in this segment are sold in shopping centers and cosmetics stores at a price of no more than 600 rubles.

Light day moisturizer for normal and combination skin “Clean Line”

Clean Line cream maintains water balance, nourishes the skin, and also creates a protective barrier against moisture evaporation. The product is well absorbed and used as a base for makeup.

This Clean Line product contains 3 components of the best moisturizer:

  • humectants - aloe vera juice, cornflower flower extract, urea, glycol compounds;
  • occlusive - dimethicone;
  • emollient - cetearyl alcohol.

REFERENCE
Ekaterina Imshenitskaya

Humectants - hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, etc., collect water molecules from the dermis and air and retain it. Occlusive agents - petroleum jelly, silicones, mineral oils, etc., create a protective film on the skin to retain moisture. Emollients or lubricants soften and moisturize the skin by saturating it with fatty acids. These are oils, triglycerides, beeswax, etc. The moisturizer must contain all these components.

Volume: 40 ml.

Production: Russia.

Customer reviews: 4.8.

Garnier “Basic Care” Non-stop moisturizing cream

Garnier daily care product contains burdock extract and glycerin. It not only moisturizes, but mattifies, making it suitable for oily and combination skin. Buyers note that the product is quickly absorbed, does not leave sticky or greasy marks and is suitable as a base for makeup.

Volume: 50 ml.

Production: France-Germany.

Customer reviews: 4.6.

L'Oreal Paris Face Cream “Moisturizing Expert”

Moisturizing cream "Moisturizing Expert" from L'Oreal Paris contains panthenol, vitamin E, glycerin and sucrose. The product is suitable for use under makeup, but some buyers note that it slides off quickly after application.

ATTENTION!

Ekaterina Imshenitskaya

The humidifier rolls off for the following reasons:

  • the skin is not completely cleansed;
  • the epidermis is dehydrated and does not absorb conventional cosmetics;
  • the product is not suitable for your skin type;
  • excess cream applied;
  • cosmetics are expired or of poor quality.

Volume: 50 ml.

Production: France-Germany.

Customer reviews: 4.4.

Seasonal features

In cold and warm seasons, moisturizer solves different problems and performs different functions.

in winter

During frosty and windy weather, as well as the drying effect of central heating, you need to especially carefully monitor the integrity of the hydrolipid layer of the skin. Moisturizers alone will no longer be enough, so when choosing a winter cream, look for lipid-replenishing components in the composition: these can be either natural oils and waxes, or ceramides.

In summer

Dry air, high temperatures and sun rays significantly dry out the skin. And since in the heat our skin secretes double or even triple the amount of sebum, it is recommended to give preference to lighter textures that do not leave the skin feeling greasy or sticky. Gel, cream-gel or fluid do not weigh down the skin, do not interfere with the free secretion of sebum and do not provoke the appearance of inflammatory elements.

A plus will be the presence of a sun protection factor in the product. For the city, “twenty” is enough, but for active recreation in the sun, look for a product with a protection factor of at least SPF 30.

Middle market

Products priced from 500 to 1500 rubles and cosmetics belong to the middle price segment.

LA ROCHE-POSAY HYDREANE LEGERE

HYDREANE LEGERE basic care is intended for normal, problem and sensitive skin. It moisturizes, soothes, relieves irritation and protects the skin from harmful factors. The product is well absorbed, does not clog pores and does not give shine in hot weather. However, buyers note that HYDREANE LEGERE does not help with dehydrated skin.

Volume: 40 ml.

Manufacture: France.

Customer reviews: 4.1.

LA ROCHE-POSAY HYDRAPHASE INTENSE LEGERE

HYDRAPHASE INTENSE LEGERE cream-gel was produced specifically for the care of dehydrated skin. It acts on the accumulative principle of moisturizing, since it contains low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (hyaluronic serum is made on its basis).

FOR REFERENCE

Ekaterina Imshenitskaya

Depots of low molecular weight hyaluronate remain in the dermis for up to 7 days.

According to customer reviews, the gel is well absorbed, suitable as a day cream for combination skin in the summer, and does not clog pores. Among the shortcomings, users note the lack of an immediate moisturizing effect.

Volume: 50 ml.

Manufacture: France.

Customer reviews: 4.1.

CeraVe Moisturizing Cream

CeraVe's thick hyaluronic acid cream is more suitable for moisturizing the body rather than the face. Cosmetologists recommend this remedy for atopic dermatitis, including in children. It eliminates peeling and itching, heals cracks in the skin.

The moisturizer is easy to apply and quickly absorbed without leaving a film.

Volume: 177 ml.

Manufacture: France.

Customer reviews: 4.6.

ELIZAVECCA Milky Piggy Moisture Sparkle Cream

Milky Piggy Moisture Sparkle Cream with a floral aroma contains niacinamide. This active component not only moisturizes the skin, but also whitens age spots, evens out post-acne marks, and stimulates the synthesis of collagen, fatty acids and ceramides. The product relieves irritation and improves complexion. Diamond powder in the composition gives the skin radiance.

Buyers note that the moisturizer is poorly absorbed and is not suitable as a day cream.

IMPORTANT!

Ekaterina Imshenitskaya

The cream is applied to damp skin or to serum with hyaluronic acid. This way it will be better absorbed and maintain water balance. Anti-aging moisturizers or thick consistency products are not smeared over the face, but are rubbed into problem areas with your fingertips.

Volume: 100 ml.

Production: Korea.

Customer reviews: 4.

Mizon Barrier Oil Cream Moisturizing Radiance Glow Skin

Moisturizing cream with olive oil from Mizon helps with dehydration on sensitive and problematic skin. It eliminates tightness, helps against rashes, regulates the secretion of the sebaceous glands and restores the lipid barrier. The cream is applied after toning as a night remedy.

Buyers note that the moisturizer helps well with peeling and rashes, but lies on the face like a thick mask.

Volume: 100 ml.

Production: Korea.

Customer reviews: 4.8.

ICON SKIN Aqua Recovery Hyaloronic Mineral Cream

Moisturizing cream from ICON SKIN is suitable for caring for dehydrated problem skin in winter. The active composition of the product includes:

  • hyaluronic acid;
  • succinic acid;
  • mineral complex;
  • niacinamide;
  • aloe vera;
  • panthenol;
  • vitamins C, E and F;
  • amino acids and prebiotics.

The cream moisturizes and nourishes the skin, gives it a healthy appearance and radiance, fights age-related changes due to antioxidants in the composition. The manufacturer recommends applying the drug in the morning and evening, as it is effective for 12 hours.

Buyers note that the product is not suitable as a makeup base because it is poorly absorbed. However, users love the hydrating and tightening effect that appears after application.

Volume: 30 ml.

Manufacture: France.

Customer reviews: 4.6.

3W Clinic Flower Effect Extra Moisturizing Cream 1CT

This Korean moisturizer with flower extracts has an oily consistency and is more suitable for use in the autumn-winter period. Hyaluronic acid in the composition retains water; allantoin fights acne and stimulates regeneration. The cream also contains jojoba oil to moisturize and protect against bacteria, and antioxidants - camellia and white lily extracts.

Volume: 50 ml.

Production: Korea.

Customer reviews: 4.

ARAVIA Professional Active Hydrating Cream 24 H

Active Hydrating Cream 24 H is designed to care for dry skin in the morning and evening. The cream has a light texture and is quickly absorbed without a sticky film. The moisturizing complex consists of urea and hyaluronic acid. Lecithin restores epidermal cell membranes and protects the skin.

IMPORTANT!

Ekaterina Imshenitskaya

Active Hydrating Cream 24 reduces redness and is indicated for rosacea.

Volume: 100 ml.

Production: Russia.

Customer reviews: 4.4.

Biore

Biore moisturizing cream-gel for the face is 4 products in 1 bottle: emulsion, lotion, serum and mask. It is universal and suitable for all skin types for daily care; It is easily absorbed without leaving sticky marks and does not clog pores. The active complex consists of hyaluronic acid, collagen, amino acids and arginine.

Volume: 180 ml.

Made in Japan.

Customer reviews: 5.

LIBREDERM

Bio-reinforcing ultra-moisturizing night cream for dry skin of the face, neck and décolleté. The manufacturer positions this product as a replacement for injection bioreinforcement at home. Cream for dry and dehydrated skin is designed to tighten the oval of the face by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, as well as active moisturizing. Active substances: carboxyhydrates and lipid complex.

Customers love the fresh-faced effect they get from using the moisturizer.

Volume: 50 ml.

Production: Russia.

Customer reviews: 5.

When your skin needs hydration

Facial moisturizer should be your duty (without exaggeration) product. After all, any skin type reacts to a lack of moisture.

  • Dry skin experiences discomfort and tightness, and flaking appears.
  • Oily skin can simultaneously suffer from oily shine, clogged pores, inflammation on the one hand, and dehydration, which only aggravates the situation, on the other.
  • Combination skin often reacts to a lack of moisture with oily sheen in the T-zone and flaking in the cheeks and nasolabial folds.
  • Normal skin loses its natural radiance, complexion becomes dull, tone becomes uneven, and an unpleasant feeling of dryness may occur.

“Skin of any type needs hydration, even if there are no signs of dehydration at the moment. It is also important to moisturize oily and problematic skin, especially during medical treatment with aggressive drugs.”

Elena Eliseeva, medical expert of the Vichy brand

Most modern drugs for acne correction damage the lipid barrier of the skin (this is their mechanism of action) - as a result, moisture is quickly lost. Therefore, a competent doctor, along with medications, must prescribe moisturizing care.

“Normal skin needs to be hydrated to maintain ideal texture and a healthy complexion. Dry skin especially needs hydrofixatives, since insufficient lipid barrier leads to loss of moisture and premature aging,” says Elena Eliseeva, medical expert at Vichy.

“Moisturizers for dry skin include both hydrofixatives, for example, hyaluronic acid, and lipid-replenishing components - oils and ceramides in high concentrations.”

Premium cosmetics

The products in this series are used for professional care, so they have been tested by clinical trials. The concentration of active substances in them is higher than in creams for the mass segment. The cost of premium class humidifiers starts from 1.5 thousand rubles.

Clarins Hydra-Essentiel SPF 15

Kalanchoe extract in cosmetics has a moisturizing effect. The product has a thick consistency and is suitable for use in winter - customers do not like that the skin begins to shine after use in the summer. The cream helps with dehydration and has ultraviolet protection with an SPF 15 filter.

Volume: 50 ml.

Manufacture: France.

Customer reviews: 4.4.

Clinique Moisture Surge Tinted SPF 25™

A cream based on hyaluronic acid, aloe vera and kelp extract retains moisture in the skin for up to 12 hours. Lecithin, antioxidants and UV filter 25 protect the face from the harmful effects of external factors. The humidifier has a slight tonal effect, which some customers do not like. They believe that it is not suitable for problem skin, it creates a mask effect and emphasizes rosacea.

Volume: 30 ml.

Manufacture: France.

Customer reviews: 3.8.

Anatomy of a moisturizer

In the last post, we figured out how the skin's moisturizing system works. In this post, we'll talk about what moisturizing cosmetics do, what a moisturizer is made of, and what ingredients to look for on the label.

Any cream is an emulsion. An emulsion is formed from any two immiscible liquids, for example water and oil.

Oil in water (direct emulsion). Contains water in the base. These are moisturizing creams, fluids, milk, lotions, serums. Lighter products.

Water in oil (reverse emulsion). Contains lipids (fats) in the base. More physiological (related to the skin). These are nourishing, protective, cold creams and ointments. Heavier, richer, fatty, dense foods.

Direct emulsions (water-based) feel good on the skin, but do not “stick” to it as well as lipid-based products. The water from the cream gradually evaporates from the surface of the skin. Inverse emulsions (lipid based) tend to stay on the skin longer.

The difference between moisturizing and nourishing cream is that they are different types of emulsions. A moisturizing cream contains more water and humectants, while a nourishing cream contains more lipids (fats, oils).

Next we will look at what components a good moisturizing product should contain, but first we will find out why we need a cream.

Embryolisse Crème Hydratante à l'Orange

Moisturizing cream with orange extract is suitable for normal to dry skin. It has an organic composition: vitamins C and E, sesame and almond oil, beeswax. The product eliminates peeling and evens out complexion. According to buyers, it should be used as a base for makeup in the cold season.

Volume: 50 ml.

Manufacture: France.

Customer reviews: 4.2.

Application rules

Apply any cream only to a face that has been previously cleansed of dirt and makeup. If the cream contains moisture-retaining agents (glycerin, hyaluronic acid), it is advisable that the skin is slightly damp before application. Treat it with tonic.

Distribute the composition with your fingertips along the massage lines, moving from bottom to top: from the chin to the cheekbones, from the corners of the lips to the temples, and so on.

Moisturizing cream can be “covered” with oil or serum with an oily texture; this method is especially relevant for those with dry skin.

Composition of moisturizer

There are 4 types of ingredients in the cream that support a healthy level of skin hydration:

A competent moisturizer should contain all 4 types.

Many components combine several properties - for example, a humectant and a film former.

Let's talk about each type in more detail.

Humidifiers

Humidifiers are always highly absorbent substances. They are able to attract water from the atmosphere into the skin, as well as “drag” it from the lower layer of the skin (dermis) to the upper layer (epidermis). Humectants add moisture to the skin, bind it and keep it inside.

Many of them also form a thin gas-permeable film. This way the skin breathes, but the moisture does not escape. Such moisturizers (for example, hyaluronic acid) work like a “wet compress” - they “sit” on the surface of the skin, absorb and retain moisture.

In addition, moisturizers increase the plasticity of corneocytes (cells of our upper stratum corneum) and reduce skin roughness.

Humidifiers work especially effectively in humid climates and after a shower, when there is a lot of moisture on and around the skin.

The effective concentration of moisturizers in skin products is from 1 to 5% (for hair - from 2 to 5%).

Cheat sheet on humidifiers. What to look for on the label

  • NMF (natural moisturizing factor) - hyaluronic acid (hylauronic acid), glycerin (glycerin, glycerol, diglycerin), urea (urea), amino acids (amino acids, arginine PCA, sodium aspartate, sodium polyaspartate).

If your cream contains components of the skin's natural moisturizing factor, consider yourself lucky. ☺ The components of NUF have a small molecule and are highly soluble in water. From cosmetics, they penetrate well into the stratum corneum and effectively moisturize, supporting natural processes.

Acids and their derivatives - lactic acid, sodium lactate, ammonium lactate, TEA-lactate, lactamide, malic acid, sodium malate ( sodium malate), diglycereth-7 malate, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), sodium pyrrolidone carbonate (sodium PCA), copper pyrrolidone carbonate (copper PCA), glucuronic acid (polyglucuronic acid) ), acetic acid amide (acetamide MEA), glutamic acid (glutamic acid).

Sugars, polysaccharides - erythritol (erythritol), glucose (glucose), xylose (xylose), maltitol (maltitol), melibiose (melibiose), invert sugar (saccharide isomerate, saccharide hydrolysate), agarose (agarose).

Pantolactone, glucuronolactone, corn glycerides, sorbitol, hydroxyethyl sorbitol, algae, seaweed, carrageen, sea salt, honey, panthenol , hydrolyzed oat, wheat, soy, corn, silk protein, hydrolyzed wheat starch, collagen, elastin, gelatin, betaine, glycereth-12, triglycereth-7 citrate.

Film formers

Film formers help retain moisture inside. Therefore, they are always combined with moisturizers in the cream.

Film formers create a thin, moisture-proof film on the skin. It prevents evaporation and “locks” existing moisture.

By the way! They are also called occlusal components.

Occlusive components reduce irritation, give the impression of elasticity and freshness, and help restore the hydrolipid mantle.

However, some of them (for example, mineral oil, petrolatum) can leave a greasy feeling on the skin, clog pores and cause allergies.

The most effective film formers are petroleum jelly in a concentration of 5%, lanolin, mineral oil and silicones. That's why they are so often found in products for dry, atopic skin.

Cheat sheet on film formers. What to look for on the label

Collagen, elastin, aloe, allantoin, hydrolyzed oat, wheat, soy, corn protein, oils, squalene , squalane, lecithin, wax, lanolin, vitamin E (tocopherol), fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), fatty acids (stearic acid, lanolin acid, decyl myristate, cetyl ricinoleate), caprylic/capric triglyceride, esters (myristyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, cholesteryl oleate, stearyl stearate, oleyl linoleate, octyldodecyl stearate, disteryl ether), silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone, cetearyl methicone), propylene glycol ( propylene glycol, propylene glycol dioleate), butylene glycol, mineral oil, paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum, petrolatum, paraffin.

Lipids

It would seem - what do moisture and fat have in common? After all, they are complete opposites. However, lipids play a critical role in skin hydration. Without them, complete, competent hydration is impossible.

Lipids (aka fats) “lock” moisture in the skin, restore and maintain the integrity of the epidermal barrier and hydrolipid mantle.

Oils, ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, fatty alcohols are all lipids.

Important! The more lipids in the cream, the better it penetrates through the epidermal barrier into the skin. Therefore, there is no need to be so afraid of oils.

The closest in composition to skin lipids, and therefore the most effective fats: apricot oil, canola, coconut, corn, jojoba, olive, safflower, sesame, shea, soybean, sweet almond, jojoba wax, lanolin, lecithin, squalane.

Cheat sheet on lipids. What to look for on the label

Oils, butters, lipids, ceramides, cholesterol, sphingolipids, monolaurin, linoleic acid, squalane, wax, lanolin (lanolin), lecithin (lecitin).

Emollients

When the skin lacks moisture and lipids, it begins to peel. The scales of the upper layer of skin (corneocytes) become extremely dry, hard, rough and “bulge out” in all directions. As a result, “holes” are formed between them, through which water intensively evaporates.

Emollients fill the space between the “fluffy” scales. They lubricate, soften and increase the plasticity of corneocytes, smooth the surface of the skin, and help patch up the epidermal barrier.

Many lipids are emollients.

Emollients can potentially clog pores (if prone).

Emollient cheat sheet. What to look for on the label

Oils, butters, ceramides, lanolin, linoleic acid, squalene, squalane, glycerides, propylene glycol, silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone) ), dimethicone copolyol, mineral oil, paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum, petrolatum, sucrose oleate, acetyl trihexyl citrate, octyl stearate, tridecyl stearate, glyceryl stearate, isocetyl stearate, glycol stearate, hyexyl laurate, glyceryl ricinoleate, myristyl propionate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (polyglyceryl-2 triisosterate), C12-20 isoparaffin (C 12-20 isoparaffin), diethylhexyl malate, PEG and PPG (PEG-4 lanolate, PEG-5 tristearyl citrate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PPG-20 cetyl ether, PPG-4 laureth-2), esters (isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, isopropyl isostearate, octyl octanoate, decyl oleate, diisopropyl dilinoleate, ethyl linoleate, ethylhexyl palmitate, C 12-13 alkyl ethylhexonoate, cetyl acetate, diethylhexyl adipate), fatty alcohols (C14-15 alcohols, isosteryl alcohol, caprylyl glycol, cetyl alcohol).

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