Facial contouring , also called contouring or sculpting , is a special makeup technique in which certain means specifically designed for this purpose are used to correct the shape of the face and smooth out imperfections in appearance.
Moreover, with its help you can visually “correct” not only significant flaws , such as facial asymmetry, disproportionate size of its parts or the location of the eyes, but also minor ones, such as the dark area under the eyes, acne, freckles.
Contouring a rectangular or square face
In this case, we need to soften the sharp lines a little and “round out” the face.
To achieve this goal it is necessary:
- carefully and carefully darken the jaw area; the wider the face, the larger the surface area the dark corrector should occupy;
- Apply the darkest foundation to the area above the temples, as well as along the hairline and at the corners of the jaw;
- the chin should not be darkened, as this will make the face pointed;
- the area for applying blush should be round, they are applied from the edge of the cheekbones slightly obliquely and downwards along the hollow;
- to bring the rest of the face to the forefront, light highlighter should be distributed along the midline of the forehead, the area under the eyes and in the lower area of the chin; To get natural makeup, there should be a minimum amount of such lighting.
Advice! To ensure that cosmetics apply perfectly, brushes and sponges require careful care. They are washed with soap at least once a week and dried thoroughly. When brushes and sponges wear out, the powder and cream will lie unevenly, so they should be replaced regularly.
How to avoid mistakes
Any makeup should be applied exclusively in daylight. If this is not possible, you will have to look for a suitable angle so that the light falls on the entire face. Lighting is especially important for those who like to use highlighters.
On the Internet you can find videos with makeup done only with highlighters. But in ordinary life it will look stupid and inappropriate.arrow_left
On the Internet you can find videos with makeup done only with highlighters. But in ordinary life it will look stupid and inappropriate.
The main mistake that beginner “sculptors” make is the wrong choice of shade and the inability to shade the boundaries. These skills are acquired over time. Therefore, you need to train and not despair if it doesn’t work out the first time.
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Exercise for the lower part of the face
A youthful appearance of the face is impossible without a clear contour; these exercises are necessary to prevent the chin from drooping:
- Get back to the starting position. You can sit down, but keep your stomach and thighs tense and your back straight.
- Open your mouth. Cover your lower teeth with your lower lip as if you were reaching for your larynx. Pull your lip with the corners of your mouth.
- The upper lip should be pressed against the upper teeth.
- Place your index finger on your chin so that you can feel the skin stretching with your lip all the time.
- Open your mouth slowly, without loosening your lips, then close your tense lips again. The result should be a movement similar to scooping up water with a cupped palm. Make sure that the jaw joints remain calm: the movement is performed by the corners of the mouth.
- Each time you close your mouth, lift your chin about an inch. During the exercise, imagine how the lateral muscles of the chin and cheeks work.
- When your head is thrown back as far as possible, hold with your mouth covered for 30 seconds.
- Slowly return your head to its original position.
- Do a relaxation exercise.
Sculpting a round face
With this type of face, its features are always too smooth and have almost no pronounced boundaries. We offer step-by-step instructions for contouring a round face with photos:
- In this case, there should be slightly less light tones on the skin than with regular makeup;
- the dark corrector is applied on the sides in the form of an arc, extending onto the cheeks;
- the distance from such an arch to the nose is 2–3 cm; its central part should be located in the ear area;
- the chin is processed in the center and on the sides with gentle movements;
- if you are planning to have a double chin, you also need to darken it a little;
Makeup for a round face
- You can make your face less flat and more voluminous by sculpting the nose; to do this, apply a lighter foundation to a triangle, the corners of which fall on the outer corners of the lips and nose;
- distribute cosmetics of the same shade in the triangle area between the beginning of the eyebrows and the bridge of the nose; Apply darker makeup on the sides of your nose.
Advice! Never extend dark contouring applied on the cheekbones to the lips and chin. The optimal distance to them is two fingers.
Cosmetologist's advice
For black and white correction, all well-known cosmetic brands produce products from foundations, sculpting powders and blushes, to light highlighters and shimmers, as well as modeling palettes. No matter what products you use, the main thing to remember is that your skin must be spotlessly clean.
Advice: since several layers of cosmetics are applied, you will also have to wash it off in several steps. After washing, do a control procedure - wipe the skin with lotion.
Dry and oily contouring
There are two main ways to contour your face. This is face sculpting with dry or oily correctors:
- Dry corrector is a facial correction product that helps narrow the cheekbones, nose, and reduce the forehead or chin area. It does not have a pronounced effect, unlike fatty products. Dry correctors are suitable for contouring during the day or for creating light evening make-up.
- Fat correctors are means for creating a dense tone. Therefore, they are not suitable for everyday makeup. In addition, they are immediately noticeable on the face during the day, especially in bright sunlight. This correction is intended for creating an evening make-up or for photo shoots and video shooting.
Basic contouring steps
Let's take a closer look at how to properly sculpt individual areas of the face:
- after application, each product must be thoroughly shaded;
- in the forehead area, correctors are applied only along the hairline;
- areas near the temples are always covered with a darker shade; the center of the forehead is highlighted;
- cheekbones are a key area, so they must be emphasized;
- there is a small depression between the ear and mouth, onto which you need to apply the darkest corrector; to find this place, run your finger over it or slightly pull in your cheeks;
- light powder in the cheekbone area is distributed slightly higher on the protruding area;
- to balance the dark color, the corrector must be applied to the chin area in the center and sides; this will make the contour of the face itself clearer and more expressive;
- the same corrector is distributed with perpendicular movements of the hand and from the bottom of the chin to the neck;
- you can adjust the width of the nose by applying a darker cream to its wings, and a light highlighter to the back;
- if you shade a small dark dot on the tip of your nose, it will look a little shorter.
Face contouring - step-by-step instructions. Step 1-4
Face contouring - step-by-step instructions. Step 5-8
Face contouring - step-by-step instructions. Step 9
Advice! To make your makeup look natural, use only a matte corrector or bronzer without shimmer (glitter) or pearl.
Sculpting a triangular face
There are two types of triangular faces: with the apex pointing up or down. Depending on this, its correction is made. Its main techniques are provided in the following step-by-step instructions (with photos) for contouring a triangular face:
- imagine that there is an oval in the center of your face; apply a darker foundation to all areas that extend beyond its contour;
- the chin can be smoothed using dark shades distributed in its center and slight lightening of the skin at the edges;
- to narrow the upper part, not only the temples are darkened, but also the convex tubercles on the forehead; as well as the center of the forehead and chin;
- with a wide forehead and pointed chin, shadows are applied to the cheeks in the form of a diamond.
Triangular face contouring
Advice! You can hide wrinkles with a light highlighter. Stretch the skin slightly so that the product is evenly distributed even in the smallest folds, apply it, and then blend thoroughly.
What are proofreaders
Correctors are special cosmetic products that can be used to retouch the face and create contour lines. If you choose the right tools, the result will be of the highest quality and will look natural. Such cosmetics can be a replacement for many others that are used in the process of applying makeup. A corrector palette is a universal option that helps make your make-up complete and harmonious, as well as hide imperfections on the skin.
How to remove circles under the eyes?
The eyes are designed especially carefully. After all, with the slightest mistake, the whole face will look unnatural:
- dark circles are highlighted and shaded even before applying the rest of the cosmetics;
- the product used for such purposes is selected only one tone lighter than the skin;
The eyes are designed especially carefully. After all, with the slightest mistake, the whole face will look unnatural
- highlighter with reflective particles is carefully applied from the inner corner to the outer corner so that a small triangle is formed; after careful shading, it is fixed with powder;
- if there are bags under the eyes, a shadow forms on the inner corner of the eye; if you lighten it carefully with a thin, beveled brush, the bags will be less noticeable; The most important thing is not to apply concealer to the swelling area itself, otherwise you can worsen the situation.
Advice! Reddish skin under the eyes can be disguised with a product with a greenish tint. Purple circles are masked with concealer with a slight yellow tint. Yellowness, on the contrary, can be removed using correctors with a lilac tone.
Review of the best palettes
A budget and high-quality contouring kit is quite rare. Many mass-market companies skimp on the production of cosmetic palettes by stuffing them with downright bad products. Even luxury brands are guilty of this sometimes. Therefore, before purchasing a palette, it is better to familiarize yourself with the highest quality products from different price categories.
MAC Pro conceal and correct
MAC pro conceal and correct
Professional makeup artists recommend this particular palette - a kind of ancestor of modern contouring. MAC's face sculpting kit hit the market a few years ago. With its help you can create a beautiful and natural cream contouring. The palette contains the best basic shades: 2 dark, 2 medium, 1 light and 1 with a yellow undertone (to disguise under-eye circles). They mix easily with each other and blend well (this quality is very important for sculpting). The palette contains only cream shades, so at the end of the makeup you need to set it with powder. The palette is suitable for women with any skin tone (except the darkest).
Average cost of the product: 2500-3000 rubles. You can buy this product in the official MAC online store, as well as in major cities of Russia. The palette is often found in luxury cosmetics stores (Ile de Beaute).
Maybelline Master Sculpt
Maybelline Master Sculpt Palette
→ Palette overview
The palette contains dry concealer products and a synthetic brush in a hidden compartment. The set includes two standard shades: light and dark. The darkening sculptor has a reddish undertone that is not very suitable for Russian girls. The product must be well shaded in order to obtain a more or less natural effect. The light shade from this palette contains microscopic sparkles that look very expensive and beautiful. The product has average durability, lasts 5-6 hours on dry skin, 4-5 hours on oily skin.
Maybelline Master Sculpt price: from 350 to 650 rubles (depending on discounts and place of purchase). You can buy it on the manufacturer’s website, as well as in stores such as Magnit Cosmetic, Ruble Boom, Podruzhka.
Dry products do not need powder to set, but liquid and cream products will definitely need it. Otherwise, the makeup won't stick. It is best to use a transparent, transparent powder so as not to overload your face with makeup.
Anastasia Beverly Hills Contour Kit
Anastasia Beverly Hills Contour Kit
The palette contains 6 products with dry texture: 2 light (with pink and yellow undertones), 3 dark and 1 highlighter. This palette is a good option for both home use and professional makeup. With its help you can create lasting and natural facial modeling. The shades are easy to use and blend. They can be applied as setting powder.
Product cost: from 3000 rubles. It is extremely difficult to buy; many fakes are sold in Russia. It is best to order from American online stores, and ideally from the manufacturer’s website.
Contour Kit Smashbox
Contour Kit Smashbox
Structuring your face is quite easy to do with this product. The palette contains 3 basic shades: dark, medium and light. The product also comes with a universal contouring chart. It should be noted that the palette does not include highlighter, only light matte powder. The texture of all products is dry, easy to blend. Each concealer is a little dusty, but applies perfectly to the brush.
Average price: 2800 rubles. You can buy it at Ile De Beaute and other luxury cosmetic stores.
Nyx Highlight & Contour Pro Palette
Nyx Highlight & Contour Pro Palette
→ Palette overview
The Nyx company is quite controversial, as it has many ridiculous and low-quality products in its assortment. Specifically, the contouring palette is quite good; it contains as many as 8 shades. The palette is versatile and convenient; it contains 2 highlighters with cool and warm undertones. Other colors are matte and quite practical as they blend well.
The palette is suitable for all skin types and complexions. With its help you can perform quick and natural sculpting. All cosmetic products have a dry texture.
Cost: about 1000 rubles. The Nyx brand is represented in large shopping centers throughout Russia. It can also be purchased in the official online store.
PUPA Contouring & Strobing
PUPA Contouring & Strobing Palette
Strobing is a special technique in makeup, for which highlights are placed on the face using highlighting agents.
The set contains matte and shiny products in different shades. This product not only helps to lighten or darken areas of the skin, but also gives them a dewy shine. This effect looks very good in spring and summer, with light, unobtrusive makeup.
The palette contains 3 correctors (2 dark and 1 light), as well as 1 highlighter with a wet effect. The products are dry, have average durability and pigmentation. Using them, you can create an evening or daytime face design.
Cost of the set: 800 rubles. You can buy it wherever the Pupa brand is represented (Magnit Cosmetic, L'Etoile, Rive Gauche, Ile de Beaute).
CATRICE palette
CATRICE Allround concealer palette
The palette contains liquid concealers and correctors. This is the most budget product on the entire list. The Catrice brand is not inferior in quality to some luxury brands. The products of this company, in particular the contouring palette, are used by many makeup artists. Allround concealer adheres well to the face, does not “creep” during the day, and combines well with other cosmetics.
The concealers have medium coverage. Suitable for all skin tones, but not for oily faces (if used, you will have to set it heavily with powder).
Cost: about 400 rubles. You can buy it in Ruble Boom and Podruzhka.
How to choose contouring palettes?
- Choose a powder or cream base. It's always recommended to start with a powder foundation as it gives you more control over your technique. You can always move on to cream later.
- Invest in high quality brushes. This is the ultimate game changer because using brushes that blend well is so important to the entire contouring process. Remember that blending is the key to flawless contouring.
- Test out different colors until you find the shade that suits your skin tone best. Use a highlighter that's about two shades lighter than your base and an eyeshadow that's two shades darker.
- Add blush to the apples of your cheeks to soften your contoured look. Read the article on how to properly contour your face.
- It is best to avoid warm toned (orange/golden) products. You are trying to create the illusion of shadows on your face to lift and define it. Look for cool, ash-toned products.
- Don't try to cut out and outline your face with something shimmery - it will look messy, unnatural and truly cringe-worthy. Always use a matte product!
How does correction differ from sculpting?
In general, the terms correction and sculpting are called synonyms, but they have certain differences. Correction is more about creating light and shade on the face or darkening certain areas to change the shape of the face. This is relevant if you need to visually shorten your nose or narrow your face, etc.
Sculpting also includes similar actions, but it is done more often in order to visually emphasize the natural lines on the face and make them clearer. This technique became popular back in the 70s of the last century.
Use correctors in dark and light shades to highlight the best features on your face, as well as to retouch imperfections. With the help of light tones you can reflect light and highlight something, while dark correctors help, on the contrary, to hide and shade. This way you can change the oval of your face and retouch its features. However, this technique is not easy, so it takes time and practice to master it.