HIT COSMETICS WITH ACIDS! WHO NEEDS IT, HOW TO CHOOSE AND HOW TO USE CORRECTLY?

The need to periodically cleanse the skin of dead horny scales that interfere with its renewal and rejuvenation has been proven and is beyond doubt. The most difficult question is to choose a product that would be gentle, gentle, without serious side effects, and would be inexpensive. These are the properties that ANA peeling (fruit) has, carried out using special acids. From our article you will learn detailed information about this popular procedure.

What types of acids are used

AHA peeling - peeling with fruit acids

AHA acids used in cosmetology are mainly represented by mandelic, glycolic or lactic acids.

• Almond peeling is considered the most gentle and gentle, therefore it is used even for sensitive skin, as well as in the presence of vascular network (rosacea). In addition, this type of peeling is often used to improve the condition of problematic epidermis;
• Glycolic peeling is the most popular, as it helps get rid of various skin defects. It has shown high effectiveness in the fight against age-related changes. Cosmetologists also recommend it to prevent the aging process of the skin;
• Milk peeling has a moisturizing effect and is therefore used to renew fading and dehydrated skin surfaces.

Fruit acids also include citric, tartaric, and malic. Some specialists combine different types of acids depending on the patient’s skin type and the degree of worsening of its defects.

The higher the concentration of acids in the peeling composition, the stronger the exfoliating effect will be, and, consequently, the rejuvenating effect!

My first and proven products with acids

Good afternoon

Today I finally want to tell you about the acid part of my routine. I must make a reservation: I’m not at all good at this (care in general and acids in particular)

, so I’ll just describe my impressions. Although, perhaps, I would not refuse your advice in order to better understand the topic and competently build my systematic care

I can’t say that I have incredibly problematic skin, but I almost always have at least one inflammation on my face. In addition, I have uneven skin texture due to marks from comedones and healed inflammations, and uneven skin tone due to these same marks and freckles. And also enlarged pores and, as a result, blackheads. And, probably, the most frightening thing for me is the appearance of facial wrinkles. All this doesn’t sound very scary, but most often I don’t allow myself to go out into public without foundation and concealer.

At the first opportunity, I go to a cosmetologist, but for a number of reasons this does not happen very often, so I focused on home care. As many people know, acids are considered one of the best options, so that’s what I turned to.

In today’s post I will show only two products that are more of a supplement, but it was with them that I started getting acquainted with acids a couple of years ago.

Cream mask with fruit acids exfoliant CORA

I already wrote about some CORA products, but then I deliberately left the mask for a separate post. I couldn’t understand it right away, but when it happened, I classified the cream mask with fruit acids as one of those that really works.

Externally, nothing special: an ordinary soft plastic tube with a volume of 100 ml, there is a lot of information on the bottle and box.

It has a rather pronounced sour odor. I don't hate him, but I can't call him pleasant either. Fortunately, it is felt mainly only during application.

Consistency: a fairly dense paste, a creamy feel to the touch with some inclusions, suggestive of abrasive particles. The mask does not spread, but is absorbed a little during exposure.

There is one moment in my history of “relationship” with the mask that I regretted: I did not use it in the prescribed course, but from time to time when I remembered it. I plan to fix this by buying a new bottle, but for now I will write about what happened with my irregular use.

• After applying the cream mask, the skin tingled - sometimes more strongly, sometimes barely noticeable, sometimes not at all. This was probably due to the general condition of the skin and its sensitivity at a particular moment. A couple of times I could hardly stand the required 5-7 minutes, and several times I forgot and kept the mask on for more than 20 minutes.
• After rinsing off, the skin is slightly reddened and more sensitive, so I consider the evening to be the best time to use this exfoliant.
• The skin is visually and tactilely much cleaner and smoother, the pores are well cleaned, the relief is smoothed.
• A cream mask with fruit acids noticeably (but not 100%, of course) evens out the skin tone and brightens it, and has a beneficial effect on excessive pigmentation and post-acne marks.
• As soon as I approached the recommended regularity of use, I noticed that the skin began to peel off slightly, which indicates that the top layer was being renewed.
• Refreshes and gives tone to the skin.

I was able to notice all this even with irregular use, I believe that if you follow the recommended course, the effect will be more pronounced.

Price: from 500 to 700 rubles, average price - 634 rubles.

Rating: 5.

Duration of use: more than 14 times, irregularly for several months, I plan to repeat.

Noreva Exfoliac Acnomega 100 Keratoregulating Matifying Care

The word “cream” is never mentioned on the packaging, although that’s what I would call this product. Just Acnomega 100 (well, or 200), that’s what they usually call it.

I think that few girls interested in acids have not heard of Noreva in general and Acnomega 100/200 in particular. Personally, I learned about them quite a long time ago, and it took me another two years to “mature” (everything takes a long time for me, I’m such a slow-witted person). As a result, I bought my first bottle of Acnomega 100 in 2020.

A small bottle (only 30 ml), in the box there is an insert that tells more about the Exfoliak care system than about a specific product.

The cream itself has a light consistency, white in color with a slightly yellowish tint. Absorbs quickly and does not leave a sticky or greasy feeling.

The aroma is specific, slightly sour, but not at all unpleasant.

The biggest question in my skin problems is the fact that all acne, enlarged pores with their contents, inflammation and other “joys” arise in my skin with normal oiliness. That is, I don’t suffer from oily shine, I don’t feel an urgent need to use mattifying products... In fact, I’ve never even used matting wipes! And at the same time, I constantly observe the traditional companions of oily skin on my face. Whether it’s a paradox or whether this all has some logical explanation, I haven’t found out yet.

Despite the fact that Acnomega is designed for oily and combination skin, I still took the risk of trying it on myself. Of course, I assumed that the cream would dry out, and that’s what happened.

• When applied, Acnomega stings my skin, not always, but most often. I try to apply it not all over my face, but on the most problematic areas.
• I tried to apply the cream in the morning under makeup, but it didn’t work, most often it ended in slipping. Perhaps I applied too much, perhaps I didn’t “dry” it completely... In the end, I just started using keratoregulating care at night (and now not even every evening).
• As I wrote above, this cream dries out my skin, which, however, does not surprise me. To eliminate dryness, I simply use a proven moisturizer in the morning and do moisturizing masks more often. Ideally, I would like to build a scheme that suits me, in which, perhaps, Acnomega would be applied to the serum. But for now my knowledge is not enough for me, and I don’t risk mixing. BUT! With the arrival of cold weather this fall, I took out the cream again and this time it didn’t dry out my skin. At all. Perhaps the skin has gotten used to it, perhaps it’s still warm enough now - I don’t know, but the fact remains: dryness is a thing of the past.
• Dryness is a small price to pay for the fact that Acnomega 100 really fights skin problems: pimples “blow away” many times faster, without leaving terrible marks, the relief and tone are evened out. The annotations write about a noticeable effect after the first month, but I saw it after just a few uses! The skin becomes noticeably smoother and cleaner! Inflammations that are “ripening” may never reach the surface of the skin, but those that have already appeared pass faster and almost painlessly.
• Blackheads also succumb to the influence of this magic in the tube - they become lighter, although, of course, they do not completely disappear.

I think that on really oily skin the effect would be even more pronounced due to real mattification and sebum regulation. But I am also satisfied with the effect that I see, so for the third “acid” season Exfoliac Acnomega 100 has been on my shelf. Last season (i.e., the beginning of 2020) I purchased several more Noreva Exfoliak products, but since they didn’t I managed to understand them fully, I’ll tell you about them later. I can recommend Noreva Exfoliac Acnomega 100 with a clear conscience to all fighters for clear skin. Yes, my skin is not ideal, but with acids it looks much more decent: for example, now, when I am writing this post, I see several spots on my face and not a single active inflammation, although about four days ago there were some, and what other ones! One pimple hurt, and the size even resembled a boil, brr.

Price: from 900 rubles.

Rating: 5+!

Duration of use: almost daily during the “acid” period from winter 2020.

I would be glad if you share your proven acid products in the comments.

Increase

Concentrations used

Only an experienced and qualified cosmetologist is able to correctly select the percentage of acid in the peeling product for each specific patient.

Such solutions are classified as follows:

• weak and medium concentrations (from 10 to 30%), acting at the surface of the epidermis and weakening the connections between the scales of the stratum corneum, thereby providing a powerful exfoliating effect that promotes the appearance of new young cells. In addition, these compositions stimulate the synthesis of elastin, collagen compounds, as well as other components of the intercellular layer, improving complexion, moisturizing and rejuvenating the skin surface. This type of peeling can be used frequently (for example, for oily skin types it is recommended to perform it 2 times a week);
• the most concentrated solutions with an active acid ratio of 30 to 70% not only cleanse the surface epithelium from the stratum corneum, but also affect the dermal layer, restoring its structure and tone with the subsequent appearance of a rejuvenating effect. This type of peeling is carried out no more than several times a year. They must be carried out by a qualified and certified specialist;
• the highest concentration of fruit acids (from 50 to 70%) is used to remove deep scars and scars left after acne, acne, and so on.

Cleansing: oily spot

Fruit acids are famous not only for their exfoliating properties. They are also good at sebum regulation - they reduce the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Therefore, cosmetics with AHA are recommended for young girls who suffer from the fact that their faces are constantly shiny.

However, the positive effect of fruit acids does not end there. They will certainly appeal to women of any age, whose skin is “decorated” by enlarged pores: AHA narrows them. And fruit acids, like any other, have a corrosive effect: in cosmetics they dissolve sebaceous plugs, that is, blackheads.

And, most importantly, using products with AHA, you will not only get rid of comedones, but also help your skin cleanse. Don’t forget, sweat comes out through its pores, and along with it all the waste and toxins that enter the body with food, medications, and also from the air. By getting rid of sebaceous plugs, you will greatly speed up the detoxification process.

What are the advantages of the technique

The most important advantage of the procedure is the absence of toxic effects that other types of chemical peels have.

The following advantages of the technique are:

• activation of regenerative properties;
• facilitating the penetration of any cosmetic compositions into the skin tissue, the effectiveness of which will increase significantly;
• no severe irritation of the skin surface;
• whitening and refreshing effect;
• Possibility of use on any type of skin surface;
• increasing skin firmness and elasticity;
• smoothing wrinkles;
• no need for additional mechanical polishing of the skin;
• normalization of sebum production;
• cleansing the epidermis of all kinds of rashes.

The main reasons for the AHA peeling procedure

List of contraindications

This type of peeling, like all others, has its own list of contraindications that must be taken into account before starting the manipulation. It includes:

• high skin sensitivity;
• individual intolerance to acids or components of the product;
• recent injuries with violation of the integrity of the skin;
• exacerbation of the herpes virus;
• prolonged exposure to ultraviolet rays;
• pregnancy and lactation;
• somatic diseases that occur in severe form;
• serious inflammatory processes in places requiring correction.

How does the preparatory stage go?

To prepare the skin for peeling with AHA acids, first of all, 2 weeks before the scheduled session, you should avoid visiting the solarium and prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.

In order to increase the effectiveness of the procedure, it is recommended to perform pre-peel preparation of the skin 2 weeks before the procedure, which consists of home use of washing gels, lotions or creams that contain fruit acids. They can be purchased online or from a beautician.

This preparatory process softens the horny scales of the skin, smoothes the surface of the epidermis and helps to increase the effectiveness of peeling several times.

How to care for facial skin with acids

The following are not strict rules, but recommendations. They are worth knowing and considering before using mono-acids or cosmetics with acids. What you need to know:

• Acid needs to spend some time on the skin to work properly. What does this mean: washes will be useless, since they remain on the surface of the epidermis for a very short time. Pay attention to tonics, serums, creams and other similar products. The latter will spend much more time on the skin and the acid will have time to work as it should;
• You should not apply all products with acids on yourself at once. This will only provoke an allergic reaction or, at best, increase the sensitivity of the skin. If you have a gentle product, use it every day. It is better to apply the vigorous one to the skin once a week, or even two. Let's say you have a facial tonic with a mild acid in its composition - use it daily (preferably once a day). It is better to use an acid mask once a week, and the next day do not touch your face with anything. This way you will give your skin a little rest and recovery, and protect yourself from various types of allergies and irritations;
• If you are just getting acquainted with acids, start small: use cosmetics with acids once a week, then two, three, and so on. Don't forget the point above and remember that it all depends on your skin's needs. If you see that you only need a toner with a weak acid once a week, you shouldn’t use it more often or finish off your skin with anything else;
• If you have several acid products with different groups in the composition (for example, AHA and BHA), use these products on different days. You should not combine them into one, as you are more likely to do harm than help;
• If you have sensitive skin areas, avoid them. Acids can only make the situation worse;
• Keep the product exactly as long as it is written in the instructions. You shouldn’t leave cosmetics on your face too long in hopes of the best - another way to increase sensitivity and lead to allergies;
• Test everything for allergies on the crook of your elbow before applying to your face. If you feel a slight tingling or see slight redness, this is normal. If the area where the acid was applied burns strongly, the skin is red and itchy, wash it off immediately. Don't be patient and wait for it to pass. Either the product is not suitable, or you applied too much, or left it on longer than expected. In any case, it’s not worth the risk - this is no joke;
• In the sunny season, be very careful - acids increase the skin's sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation and can cause hyperpigmentation and scarring. Here's how it works: that same keratinized layer of cells acts as a kind of filter for the sun's rays, and acids remove it. There is no filter - there is nothing to protect the skin;
• To save yourself from troubles in the summer, always apply special sunscreen cosmetics before going outside. Cosmetics with SPF protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun. It is best to protect yourself from the sun's rays all year round, even in winter. Even the weakest sun can damage the skin and cause photoaging.

Acids in cosmetics are necessary to help our skin be healthy, beautiful and radiant. Pay attention to your face: what exactly do you need? Based on your needs and requirements, you can choose suitable cosmetics. Use them correctly, following the recommendations, and there will be nothing to be afraid of.

Step-by-step implementation of the technique

The procedure is completed in about half an hour. It consists of the following stages:

1. Thorough cleansing of the client's facial skin from makeup and other contaminants.
2. Treatment of the epidermis using special compounds that improve the penetration of active ingredients during the procedure.
3. Apply a thin and even layer of acidic composition to the skin using a brush. The areas around the eyes and lips are left free. Its duration of action is from 2 to 10 minutes. At this moment, the patient feels a slight burning and tingling sensation on the skin. If these feelings intensify, you should immediately tell a specialist about it.
4. Applying a neutralizing agent to stop the acid from affecting the skin.
5. Thoroughly wash your face with plenty of running water using a sponge or sponge.
6. Applying a special soothing and anti-inflammatory cream to the skin, designed to care for the epidermis after peeling.

Photos before and after peeling with fruit acids

Efficiency and principle of action of ANA peeling

The active component is alpha hydroxy acids. These are natural biological substances contained in fruits, sugar cane, and wine. In cosmetology they are used to provide an exfoliating effect: weakening the connection between keratinized cells of the upper layer of the epidermis, activating the natural process of their death.

Peeling ANA – with acids performs the following functions:

• hydration;
• nutrition;
• increased turgor;
• activation of collagen production;
• reducing the intensity of wrinkles;
• separation of the stratum corneum;
• elimination of aesthetic defects.

Fruit acids have a more delicate effect on the skin, without injuring or irritating it. The principle of action is to exfoliate rough dead cells, and also helps to tighten the oval, smooth out the relief, and improve complexion.

Thorough cleansing of the skin using peeling allows creams and serums to be better absorbed, which increases their usefulness. The dissolving effect of acids promotes the outflow of sebum, facilitates the process of feeding cells with oxygen, and inhibits the proliferation of bacteria.

The following acids have the exfoliating effect of AHA peeling:

• glycolic;
• apple;
• lemon;
• dairy;
• wine

Peels are carried out using several acids at once, which have a complex effect on all intraepidermal processes.

Frequency and number of treatments required

In an effort to earn as much as possible, some unscrupulous cosmetologists offer everyone, without exception, to undergo a course of procedures consisting of 7 - 10 sessions, the interval between which is 1 - 2 weeks. Such a formulaic approach is incorrect, since it does not take into account important features - age, condition of the skin surface, the degree of worsening of age-related changes in each client, and so on.

There are no universal recommendations on the exact number of procedures.

• For preventive purposes, to prevent the aging process of the skin, fruit peeling can be used as a one-time procedure and does not require a whole course.
• Up to 25 years of age, in the absence of serious and profuse rashes, the procedure is recommended to be carried out 1-2 times a month in order to reduce the fat secreted by the skin and prevent the formation of acne.
• In the age range from 25 to 30 years, it is recommended to intensify the skin renewal process in 1 session. During the year they are repeated no more than 2-3 times.
• In the age group from 30 to 45 years, in order to correct age-related changes and prevent the appearance of subsequent defects, a short course of procedures is offered, consisting of 3 to 5 sessions performed at two-week intervals.
• To eliminate hyperpigmentation and get rid of pronounced signs of skin aging, a standard course of the technique will be effective, consisting of 7 - 10 sessions, which are performed once every 1 - 2 weeks.
• At the age of 45 – 60 years, as a rule, stronger chemical types of medium peels are prescribed, affecting the deeper layers of skin tissue.

Features of the recovery period

Products for washing or cleansing the face during the rehabilitation period must be hypoallergenic. It’s good when they contain panthenol, bisabolol, and chamomile extract.

Over the next 2 - 3 weeks, be sure to protect your skin with sunscreen creams (SPF at least 30) even in cloudy weather.

During this same period of time, you will have to give up trips to the sea and visits to the solarium.

By remembering all the above information, you will be armed with the necessary knowledge and will not fall for the tricks of unscrupulous cosmetologists!