Today, the main task of pharmaceutical and cosmetology laboratories is the development and synthesis of the most significant and effective substances that can be used to create effective products to solve current problems. One of these substances that is actively, but still cautiously, used for the preparation of a wide variety of pharmaceutical and cosmetology products is arbutin. At the moment, the substance is surrounded by close attention, since experiments, tests and quality tests are just being carried out, the results of which are not yet fully known.
- Beneficial properties of arbutin
- Use of the substance in cosmetics
- What is it used for in medicine?
- Where is arbutin found: sources
- Harm and contraindications for use
- Review of cosmetics with arbutin
- Roland Face cream with arbutin and placenta
- Hana Lightening Lotion for Pigment Spots
- Anti-Melasma Serum
- Himalaya Herbals Whitening Cream
Beneficial properties of arbutin
Arbutin is a natural component that is obtained by performing a series of chemical reactions with plants (bearberry, lingonberry, mulberry or bergenia).
The structure of the molecule is a glycoside, an ether. This component is actively used in products intended to lighten the skin, as the safest and most gentle product. Arbutin is non-carcinogenic and non-toxic. The component has a lot of useful properties, including:
- reduction of melanin synthesis for problems with skin hyperpigmentation;
- when exposed to an alkaline environment, arbutin has an astringent and antiseptic effect, transforming into hydroquinone;
- soothes and softens mucous membranes;
- eliminates fluid retention in the body.
Considering the properties and effect of the substance on the body, it is not surprising that plants containing it are used to treat diseases of the digestive and excretory systems.
Use of the substance in cosmetics
Arbutin is used in cosmetics as a substitute for pure hydroquinone due to the fact that it does not contain toxic components. Its main purpose is to reduce skin pigmentation. The mechanism of operation of the component is as follows: it penetrates the body and partially suppresses the production of the enzyme that is responsible for the synthesis of melanin. Thus, the level of production of the latter decreases, and age spots, freckles, and other changes in skin color are noticeably lightened.
There are subtleties in using this component in creams, since if the dose is exceeded, it can provoke the opposite effect - stimulate hyperpigmentation. Accurate data on the beneficial dosage have not yet been obtained, so arbutin is added in small quantities (usually from 2 to 4% of the total components), which means that its effect is not pronounced, but the presence of results cannot be denied. Often in skin care products it can be found in combination with various plant extracts, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C. The substance can also be effectively used in hair dyes, which is currently permitted.
In addition to the whitening effect, arbutin is also able to protect the skin from harmful ultraviolet radiation, increase the level of local immunity, have an anti-inflammatory effect and reduce the intensity of pain. Creams that are produced with this component are usually applied twice a day - morning and evening.
Also in cosmetics you can find a derivative of this substance - alpha-arbutin, which has more active properties and is widely used mainly in Japanese cosmetic products.
What is arbutin
Alpha arbutin is a substance that has antioxidant and whitening properties, which is why it is often added to various cosmetics. This component belongs to the group of phenolic-type glycosides. In other words, alpha-arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone, a substance that is often included in anti-pigmentation whitening creams. In addition, this component has an antiseptic effect.
Alpha arbutin is a substance that inhibits melanin synthesis
Arbutin is able to block the production of tyrosinase (a copper-containing enzyme), which is involved in the synthesis of melanin pigment. Thanks to this action, pigment spots are lightened and their reappearance at the site of application is prevented.
Many people believe that arbutin is toxic and can cause cancer. However, there is no scientific evidence for this. Similar substances are found in lingonberry leaves and bearberry, which are often used for pathologies of the urinary system. Alpha arbutin is still under close scientific attention. Its study continues to this day.
How arbutin works - video
What is it used for in medicine?
In medical circles, research is constantly being conducted to find the safest components for humans for the manufacture of medicines. Studies are also being conducted regarding the effect of arbutin and the advisability of its use. The most common purpose of using this component is to achieve a diuretic effect. The advantage of the substance is that, unlike other diuretics, it has a list of additional beneficial effects, namely anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.
Alpha and beta arbutin
You've probably heard of alpha arbutin as well as beta arbutin without understanding what each one is. Marketers can use these two terms to confuse and slyly promote their products. It's all about stereochemistry, that is, how atoms are arranged in space, formed, and how to manipulate them.
D-glucose binds to the spatial hydroquinone molecule to form arbutin in two ways, that is, with alpha and beta glycosidic bonds. Arbutin, extracted from bearberry, is a beta, that is, hydroquinone-O-beta-D-glucopyranoside, which is naturally occurring. Alpha arbutin can only be synthesized in the laboratory using the method described above.
Beta-arbutin is an inexpensive extract from plants that contain arbutin. Alpha arbutin is a pure product (powder) produced in laboratories and has a very high cost, but is many times more effective.
What is the difference between the properties of beta and alpha arbutin?
Manufacturers of alpha arbutin can often claim that it is several times stronger than beta arbutin (naturally occurring), which is true. But it would be unfair to say that the alpha molecule will have the same side effects as natural arbutin. The way D-glucose binds will definitely affect the chemical behavior of the resulting molecules.
Let's look at the example of starch and cellulose, as simple analogues, to understand the difference. Starch and cellulose polymers (bioplastics) are very similar to cellulose (used to make paper). However, starch has beta-glycosidic bonds. And although everything else is the same, they won’t make bread from cellulose.
The fact is that both alpha and beta arbutin will affect melanin synthesis, but in different ways. Looking at the effect of each of the two on tyrosinase from mouse melanoma and fungi using beta-arbutin and alpha-arbutin (alpha-arbutin was synthesized from starch and hydroquinone using GSase-glucoside synthetase), "beta-arbutin inhibited the activity of tyrosinase from fungus and melanoma mice. Alpha-arbutin inhibited only tyrosinase from mouse melanoma, but was 10 times more potent than beta-arbutin."[ncbi.nlm.nih.gov].
Thus, "arbutin, the type of sugar and the way it is linked to hydroquinone, represents a qualitative difference, since enzymes capable of using beta-glucosyl will not recognize the alpha-glucosyl residue" [ebay.com]
It is a fact that alpha arbutin is more effective than beta arbutin because it “more easily hydrolyzes the release of hydroquinone by glycosidases in cells.” However, apart from the above benefits, it is very expensive.
Finally, to challenge companies that use various plant extracts containing this substance, such as bearberry, blueberry, mulberry leaf, cranberry extract, etc., it is not clear whether these extracts contain substances that may affect the absorption of arbutin . In addition, it is not clear whether they have enough of it.
What does alpha arbutin look like?
It is a water-soluble white crystalline powder that is often included in a number of supplements and formulations. In products made from herbs, it can be found mainly in the form of crushed powder used in teas or capsules.
Alpha arbutin
Harm and contraindications for use
The main contraindication to the use of drugs with arbutin is the presence of individual intolerance, the possibility of which exists for all components of plant origin, and too dark skin. According to research, when using the component on too dark skin, there is a high probability of a reverse reaction of the formation of black pigmentation.
Despite the fact that contraindications to the use of products with arbutin are minimal, the substance still leaves a number of questions regarding its safety, since it is still a type of hydroquinone.
Direct harm from the use of products with such a component can only occur if the dose is significantly exceeded. It is believed that the component, under certain conditions, can even provoke the appearance of malignant tumors.
Contraindications
Opinions about the safety of using the substance differ and to date no single solution has been found. A contraindication to the use of skin whitening preparations with the active ingredient arbutin is individual intolerance and high sensitivity, since the likelihood of side effects will depend on the characteristics of the body.
It is recommended to use cosmetics with caution for people with dark skin, as this can cause the opposite effect - pigment spots can acquire a bluish-black color.
Review of cosmetics with arbutin
Today, there is a large variety of creams, serums, lotions and other cosmetics that contain arbutin. Moreover, depending on the amount of the substance in the preparation, one can judge not only its quality and effectiveness, but also its safety, since exceeding the standards for the inclusion of arbutin in a cosmetic product leads to negative consequences. For this reason, below is a list of the highest quality, natural, effective and safe products that can be found on the domestic market and purchased at any pharmacy in the country.
Roland Face cream with arbutin and placenta
The described cream is a high-quality product used for the care of facial skin of all types. The main active ingredients contained in the cream are arbutin and placenta extract. The product is sold in a small pink jar with a volume of 180 grams. It should be noted that the composition of the cream is quickly and completely absorbed into the skin without leaving an unpleasant greasy layer or a filmy feeling on the face. The Japanese manufacturer claims that the product contains all the necessary properties of milk, cream, and lotion, providing effective and gentle skin care. At the same time, the cosmetic product is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, vitamins and other substances necessary for the dermis.
Hana Lightening Lotion for Pigment Spots
This product is an effective moisturizing and brightening cream-lotion made in Japan. The product is made based on arbutin and hyaluronic acid and is sold in a small bottle with a capacity of 10 milliliters. At the same time, the product is enough for a long period of use when applying the composition to the skin of the face twice a day. The cosmetic product has a wide range of actions, allowing you not only to even out skin tone, but also to effectively saturate the skin with all the necessary vitamins and microcomponents. The complex of cosmetic elements is optimal for daily use, regardless of skin condition and type.
Anti-Melasma Serum
The cosmetic drug Anti-Melasma is a serum used for the care and correction of problematic and sensitive facial skin. The drug is great for both women and men who want to get rid of inflammatory processes on the face. One of the most important elements contained in the serum is arbutin, due to which the skin color evens out and becomes more uniform after just a few uses of the composition. The product has a light texture and is well absorbed into the skin, leaving no traces or unpleasant sensations.
Himalaya Herbals Whitening Cream
The described cosmetic product is a whitening cream that can be used for all skin types, regardless of age.
A special feature of the product is that it contains only natural ingredients and extracts, including rose oil, walnut oil, mandarin oil, aloe oil, etc. The consistency of the product is light, non-greasy, easily absorbed into the skin, and has no unpleasant odor. The product effectively brightens the skin, evening out its color, without having a negative effect on the body. ( 1 ratings, average: 5.00 out of 5)
